| Amy Robson

Decipher the INCI: Rosehip Cleansing Oil

Welcome back to Decipher the INCI, Q+A's quest to investigate each product's ingredients list from top to bottom so that you know exactly what you're putting on your skin! For our seventh instalment, it's our amazing Rosehip Cleansing Oil. Most of us are probably more familiar with a classic, foaming cleanser, so let's see how each ingredient in this relatively short line-up benefits your skin and clears away all the unwanted products and oils from your face at the end of the day! As always, I'm joined by one of our resident experts, our Assistant Development Chemist Faye. 

If you're new with us this week and want to brush up on our quick tips for reading an ingredients list, you can do so here! 

But first, the INCI...

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol.

The Emollients

The emollients, in this case, a selection of wonder-oils, are what gives our Rosehip Cleansing Oil it’s makeup-removing ability! You might be wondering how all the amazing oils contribute to the cleansing action of this product? Essentially, it's because oils dissolves oils. They collect the makeup, sweat, SPF and excess sebum on your skin, and as you wash away the cleanser, it takes the unwanted with it. 

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil. This highly stable oil is fantastic for multi-oil blends thanks to its lack of scent and colour. It is an emollient, which is an ingredient with moisturising properties that can help to repair the skin barrier whilst softening your skin. Sweet Almond Oil is rich in Vitamins; A, for overall skin health, B1, for calming irritated, dry or blemish-prone skin and anti-ageing, B2, for even skin tone, brightening and anti-ageing, B6, for balance and calming breakouts, and finally E, which is antioxidant rich for protection and repair - making it truly versatile for all skin types.  

Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil. Unlike Sweet Almond Oil, Rosehip Oil is golden in colour. Used for centuries as a skin conditioner as it looks to improve the texture of skin), help reduce hyperpigmentation and improve the appearance of blemishes; it has quite a few tricks up its sleeve. Trans-retinoic Acid promotes skin rejuvenation, essential fatty acids such as Linoleic Acid or Omega 3 hydrate, soften and protect your complexion, antioxidants help with repair and signs of ageing, and phytonutrients (which essentially means plant nutrients) keep your skin protected, calm, and bright. 

Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil. Not to be conflated with Hemp Oil (which is a blanket term), Hempseed Oil is referred to as a super oil due to its high GLA (Gamma-Linoleic Acid) content which supports skin health, provides moisture, helps to improve skin texture, and can lend a hand in reducing TEWL - the process when moisture is lost from your skin into the air. Because Hempseed Oil also works to balance oil levels in your skin, it's a friend to all skin types, even oily!

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil.  Rich in EFAs, minerals and a host of vitamins, Avocado Oil is amazing for dry and mature skin types in need of moisture support. Your skin is able to absorb the nutrients from this oil upon application, and it can help deflect harmful bacteria to keep your complexion safe from irritation. 

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil.  Interestingly, goats have a hand in helping us harvest this amazing oil, climbing Argan trees to dislodge and eat the fruit, but leaving the nuts on the ground for us to collect, and cold press. It's rich in Vitamin E, which is a powerful antioxidant, Oleic Acid, a moisturising and repairing powerhouse, and polyunsaturated fatty acids, which can help to minimise signs of ageing and lock moisture into the skin.

Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil.  Loved for its benefits on both skin and hair, Castor Seed Oil is a rich, skin-softening ingredient that provides rejuvenating nourishment to your complexion. 

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil. We love Sunflower Seed Oil because it works so well when blended with other oils, thanks to being highly stable (no oxidisation here!), odour and colour free, and equally jam-packed with goodies. In Sunflower's case, moisturising fatty acids, and Vitamins A, D and E. 

The Surfactants

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate.  Both emulsifier and surfactant,  Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate's primary function is to allow water and oil to mix, creating micelles, so that when you splash your face with water or start rinsing with a wet face cloth, the oils don't remain on your skin leaving an unpleasant greasy film! It is an ester (the product of an acid reacting with an alcohol) of Oleic Acid and Polyglycerin-4 (poly just refers to the molecule length, so we're looking at Glycerin, the alcohol compound), and has often been used as an alternative to PEG (Polyethylene Glycol). 

The Preservative Boosters

Tocopherol. Super rich in Vitamin E, Tocopherol is one of the most powerful antioxidants you can use to improve the health of your skin, by preventing free radicals from causing damage and dullness. Whilst it's a great ingredient for this reason alone, it also helps to improve the stability of the product, and boost the natural preservative action of the oils, keeping it effective and safe for a long time. 

Not our usual handful of headings, but the Rosehip Cleansing Oil INCI has delivered, and we can safely say it has been deciphered! I hope your double cleansing routine just became a little more informed, and don't forget to explore the rest of our deciphered INCIs if you're new to this series to see if we've covered another step! Or, if we haven't, let us know what you'd like to see next time.

Amy Robson
eCommerce coordinator at Q+A and decipherer of INCIs

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